Washing the Spitfire

This phase is sort of ironic, in the actual definition sort of way and not the Alanis Morissette way (link for educational purposes only, not meant for any form of entertainment). Yes, irony is not coincidence. I used Winsor & Newton raw umber oil paint thinned with odorless Turpenoid. It gets applied liberally, like Bill Clinton, all over the recesses of the model. After some time drying, an old t-shirt or a lot of Q-Tips with more Turpenoid will take the excess right off and leave behind the wash. We don't want to avoid the Noid in this case.  

Note: Here are the layers that I used up to this point with no ill effects; Tamiya Primer, Model Master Acryl paint, Testor's gloss lacquer, decals, gloss lacquer, oil wash with Turpenoid.

As you can see the process gets nice and dirty. We're washing to get dirty. Understand the irony now?

I wasn't completely happy with the wash in a few places, so I added a little more to those areas.

The unwashed bottom. I just thought of the other meaning after typing that last sentence.

The washed bottom, so much better.....or is it? The lighting is different than the comparison picture, this picture was taken in natural light while the previous photo was taken under a white fluorescent work lamp.

Before finishing the decals and washing, the comparison shot. Terrible recessed ceiling lighting here.

Washed.

Boy, I used a lot of references up there. I think it's a record for me. The oil wash will take at least 24 hours to completely dry. You may have noticed the pitot tube was missing again. Yes, I knocked it off a third time. My container storing the landing gear took a tumble as well and the wheel covers that were attached came off. I'll make more of an effort to clean off as much paint and primer in the contact areas as possible for better adhesion.

I think there will be one more post for this project, it will contain the last remaining steps; silver chipping, dull coat, attach the last few pieces and unmask the canopy. Stay tuned!